Festive clothing of the Russian North

Festive clothing of the Russian North

THE GIRLS CLOTHES
Arkhangelsk province, Mezensky district, Dorogorsky volost, Zakaka-kurie village.
Sleeve: Kisei, cotton fabric and lace. Sewn on the typewriter. The length is 62.
Skirt: Shtof, chintz, cotton fabric. It is sewn on the hands and partially on the typewriter. The length is 99.
Skirt: Cotton fabric. Is sewn on the typewriter. The length is 88.
Коротенька: Silk fabric, printed linen fabric (heel), galloon, silk braid. Stitched on the hands. The length is 60. Bandage: Galloon, kumach, glass pearl beads, seed beads, pearls, button, foil, tinsel fringe, cotton tape. Sewing with glass beads and beads. 56 x 21, the length of the bands is 24.
Beads: Amber. The length of the string is 67, the diameter of the beads is from 3.3 to 0.8.
Arkhangelsk State Museum of Wooden Architecture and Folk Art “Malye Korely”.
Restoration. 2001 – 2003 Purification from impurities, tissue strengthening, lagging of the bite on the galloons was made. Strengthened beads in sewing bandages on the pattern with the restoration of losses. Restorer N. V. Larikova.

RUSSIAN NORTH BY THE HAZARS OF THE RESTORATOR. FESTIVE CLOTHES
For the exhibition, the most significant works in artistry, things that have undergone a complex restoration, and the most typical items from the restored ones for the last two decades were selected. At the exhibition were shown church fabrics of the XV – XIX centuries, fabrics and clothing of the population of the Russian North of the XVIII – XX centuries, samples of archeological fabrics of the XII – XX centuries. and modern objects of applied art created by restorers in traditional techniques.

Most vividly reflected the diversity of cultural traditions of the North is the largest section of the exhibition “Fabrics and clothing of the population of the Russian North.” The exhibition exhibited samples of festive women’s clothing from most counties of the Arkhangelsk province, as well as from individual districts of the Vologda and Olonets provinces, the territories of which are currently part of the Arkhangelsk region.
By the end of the XIX – the beginning of the XX century in the clothes of the northerners some elements of the Old Russian costume and a common complex of Russian clothes with a sarafan have been preserved. At the same time, under the influence of local natural conditions, ethnic environment, trade ties and other factors, local peculiarities in the choice of materials, color, in the cut and design of the costume details were formed.
The most elegant and rich costumes were worn on big holidays. At the exhibition you can see women’s costumes from different parts of the North. Among them, with their splendor, they amaze the clothes of the car- ship with gold shawls and kokoshniks with pearl massive podnizyami. The clothes of the Kom pomoroks look no less majestic, but differ by a more restrained choice of the color solution. Festive women’s clothes and clothing were preserved and handed down from generation to generation as well as outfits for driving girls’ dances, where girls could demonstrate their dignity and beauty to the gathered people from the surrounding villages. The exhibition features girlish festive clothes and headdresses from many counties of the Russian North. Among the exhibited samples can be identified Shenkursky pochelok.

Festive clothing of the Russian North

WOMEN`S CLOTHING
Restoration. 2000, 2002 The objects are cleaned of contamination, the duplicating materials are selected and toned, the fabrics are strengthened. The lag of beads, gold threads in sewing and galloon is strengthened. Restorers AM Gvozdev (povoinik, kerchief), GA Grigorieva, M.A. Grigoriev.
Arkhangelsk province, Kemsky district. End of the XIX-early XX century
Straight dress: Moire, reps and woolen braid. Sewn on the typewriter. The length is 120.
Jacket: Silk fabric (rep). Is sewn on the typewriter. Length – 51. Restoration. 2002
Ponoynik: Velvet, spun silver, river pearls, cardboard, half-woolen fabric, velvet braid, chintz, cotton fabric. Gold embroidery in the attached card. 12 x 18 x 10.
A scarf to the anal: Tafta is striated. 70 x 138.
Nalobnik: Beads, mother-of-pearl dies, glass beads, chintz, silk fabric. Beading. 54.5×5.
Scarf: Russia. Silk. Weaving. 103×99.
Shawl: Russia. Silk. Jacquard weaving. 162 x 162, brushes-28. Batman belt

Of the presented girlish dresses, clothes with a kosoklinna sarafan made of dark purple tafta and a rare headdress of podchelk look simple and at the same time unusually beautiful. In their lifetime, these items became dilapidated and underwent a number of changes, they were returned to descendants by the efforts of restorers.
Until the thirties of the twentieth century, women were decorated with symbolic embroidered shirts and sarafans to start the most important agricultural work, such as harvest or haymaking. One of the Kargopolskiy kumachovy sarafans is decorated with a series of month-olds – a kind of peasant calendar in which each element had the semantic significance of the agricultural cycle.
For the exhibition in Arkhangelsk, a catalog was prepared, which outlines the basic principles of tissue restoration in the North and displays illustrations of almost all subjects. Unfortunately, it does not reflect the costumes that were formed and shown at the exhibition in Arkhangelsk. Therefore, the idea arose to prepare an appendix to the catalog and show northern clothing in the complexes, especially since new sets of festive clothes were prepared for exhibiting in Moscow: girls’ suits for driving “circles” – roundelays from Arkhangelsk and Onega counties, a wedding dress from the village of Purnema and even winter clothes from Sumy Posad.
At the same time, the organizers of the exhibition did not set out to create full ethnographic costumes with all the details, since only those items that were restored were used at the exhibition. Therefore, only a part of the costumes is completed in more detail, in some cases only the most significant elements of clothing are presented. For example, items of festive clothing from the Shenkur county are singled out separately, and a wedding dress from Onega county is shown with a thin white shawl wrapped around her head, as was customary in the ritual, when the girl was led to the crown.
Despite the fact that festive clothing is not shown in full, the exhibited samples acquaint visitors with the amazing phenomenon of northern Russian culture: with the characteristic features of northern clothing, its local features, the variety of costumes that reflect the national character and the aesthetic view of the northerners.

Festive clothing of the Russian North

WOMEN WINTER CLOTHES
Arkhangelsk Province, Kemsky District, Sumy Posad.
Jacket with winches: Velvet, cotton wool, satin, cotton fabric twill weave, gold-plated metal buttons. Stitched on the hands. Length-76.
Straight dress: Woolen fabric, satin, woolen and cotton tape. Sshit on the hands and partially on the typewriter. The length is 133.
The anal: N. A. Pashina (1866-1945). Velvet, spun silver, cardboard, cotton fabric, mitkal. Gold embroidery in the attached card. 12 x 18 x 9.
Shawl: Russia. Silk. Weaving. 134.5 x 138, brushes – 20.
Klondike: A copy by analogy with a kerchief.
Nalobnik: A copy by analogy with the forehead.
Restoration. 2000, 2003 The parts are cleaned of dirt, removed rough seams, partially duplicated fabrics and strengthened by tears and losses. Sewing is strengthened. Fragment before and after restoration.

Festive clothing of the Russian North

THE GIRLS CLOTHES
Arkhangelsk province, Onega county. End of the XIX-early XX century
The dressing gown is scoffed. Shtof, galloon, metal buttons, tinsel, chintz. Sshit on the hands.
The length is 122.
Sleeves – a short jacket under sarafan Mitkal, a satin ribbon, cotton lace. Is sewn on the typewriter. The length is 51.
Dressing with silk ribbon. Galloon, foil, cardboard, chintz, glass beads, seed beads, mother of pearl. Embroidery with beads and beads. Height – 21, circle – 57. The size of the tape – 175 x 7. Inv. 3295 KP
Restoration. 1995, 1996, 1998 Partial dismantling of parts. Purification from contamination, toning and tearing and loss of duplicate materials have been carried out. Strengthened fabrics, lace, embroidery and podniz on the dressing. Restorers AM Gvozdev, GA Grigoriev (sarafan).
Onega Historical-Memorial Museum

WEDDING CLOTHES
Arkhangelsk province, Onega county, Purnema village. Early 20th century
Dress. Cotton fabric, satin ribbon, metal buttons. The length is 111.
A scarf. Russia. Silk, weaving, 110 x 106, brushes – 13. Inv. 3027 inc.
Restoration. 2003 Pollution cleaning, tinting of duplicating materials were made. The scarf is completely duplicated. Fortified tissue. Restorer A. M. Gvozdev.
Solovetsky State Historical, Architectural and Natural Museum-Reserve.

Festive clothing of the Russian North

Costume.
Skirt and jacket. Woolen fabric (garus), kumach, cotton lace, metal hooks. Sewn on the typewriter. The length of the sweater is 51, the length of the skirt is 91.
Shawl. Russia. Cotton cloth. Manual printing. 156.5 x 148.
Restoration. 1982,1995 Purification from contaminations was made, stains of wax on shawls were removed. Strengthened fabric and lace. Restorer GA Grigoriev.
Onega Historical-Memorial Museum. Solovetsky State Historical, Architectural and Natural Museum-Reserve (shawl).

WOMEN`S CLOTHING
Arkhangelsk province, Kholmogorsky district.
End of the XIX-early XX century Costume
Taft is two-faced, guipure. Sewn on the typewriter. The length of the skirt is 95, the length of the jacket is 54.
Skolok. Taft is two-faced, calico, paper. Sshit on the hands. 13 x 22 x 10.
The headscarf “Spaniard”. Russia. Silk. Weaving lace on bobbin. 200 x 53.
Restoration. 1986, 1993 The items are cleaned of debris, deformations are eliminated, fabrics and lace are strengthened. Restorer G.A. Grigoriev.
GMO “Art culture of the Russian North”.

Women’s clothing
Arkhangelsk regional museum of local lore (shirt).
The Museum of Schenkour.
The shuffles of the shirt.
Straight dress. Shtof, galloon, satin, chintz. The length is 126.
Blouse. Shtof, semi-silk fabric, twill, cotton lace, pestry, linen, chintz, metal buttons. Is sewn on the typewriter. The length is -46.
The anal. Atlas, cotton fabric, linen pestry, cotton tape, gilded spun silver. Gold embroidery in the fastener. 19x19x8.
Shawl. Russia. Silk. Jacquard weaving. 145.5 x 143.
Restoration. 1995, 2003 Partial dismantling of the details of the costume and the pacifier was made. Removed stains, items are cleaned of dirt. Prepared duplicate materials. Strengthened fabrics and sewing. Installation. Restorers AM Gvozdev, GA Grigorieva (shawl ponies), MA Grigorieva (shawl).
The Museum of Schenkour.
Kenozersky national park (shawl).

Costume
Blouse. Fragment before and after restoration.
ACCESSORIES
Umbrella. Satin, cotton lace, wood, metal. The length is 94, R-56.
Skirt and jacket. Silk fabric (reps and satin weave), satin, cotton fabric, woolen braid with fringe, metal buttons. Sewn on the typewriter. The length of the skirt is 100, the length of the jacket is 45.
Restoration. 1991, 1999 Removed stains and most stains, cleaned from contamination. Strengthened fabric and lace. The buttons are selected and sewn to the loss site. Restorer GA Grigoriev.
The Museum of Schenkour.

OLONETSKAYA GUBERNIA KARGOPOL UESD
THE GIRLS CLOTHES
Olonets province, Kargopol district. XIX century
The dressing gown is scoffed. Taffeta double-faced, chintz, galloon, kumach, metal buttons. Sshit on the hands. Length-132,
18th century headdresses Woolen, silk, linen and cotton fabrics, printed fabrics, paper, linen, beads, sequins, metal and glass buttons. Beadwork. Ochelier-27×19. The length of the tapes is 49.
A scarf. Russia, the Silk. Weaving. 89 x 89.
Sleeves-upper part of women’s shirt. Cotton cloth. Reconstruction by analogy.
Restoration. 1988, 1989, 1993 Full dismantling of the sarafan and podchelka. The parts are cleaned of dirt, duplicated to tinted materials. Cloths and embroidery are strengthened. A scheme for reconstructing a sarafan from a straight line to a kosklinny one was made. The original cut of the sarafan was restored. Restorer G.A. Grigoriev.
GMO “Art culture of the Russian North”.

WOMEN`S CLOTHING
Olonets province, Kargopol district. XIX century
Straight dress. Olonets province, Kargopol district. Semi-silk fabric with brooches of gold and silk threads, cotton fabric. Sshit on the hands. The length is -118.
Kokoshnik. Galloon, kumach, beads, pearls, glass beads, pearls, gold threads. Embroidery with beads, pearls, beads. Gold embroidery in the fastener. 14 x 18 x 12.5.
A scarf. Mitkal, gold threads, paper. Gold embroidery in the stitch and a tambour seam. 112 x 111.
Top of the shirt. XIb cloth. Reconstruction by analogy.
Restoration. 1985, 1987, 1991 The items are cleaned of dirt. Tanned and tinted duplicating materials, fabrics are strengthened. On the place of loss on the sarafan a strip, painted in the color of the background of the fabric, is inserted. Strengthened sewing on kokoshnike. Restorer G.A. Grigoriev.
GMO “Art culture of the Russian North”.

Straight dress. Silk fabric of jacquard weaving, woolen braid. Sshit on the hands.
The length is 120.
Dressing. Galun, satin, cardboard, mother of pearl, mother of pearl. Nursing with mother of pearl. 9×57. Inv. 1444 T
A scarf. Russia. Silk. Weaving. 70×70.
Sleeves. Cotton cloth. Reconstruction by analogy.
Restoration. 1985, 1993 Headgear cleaned of impurities, reinforced bald and podniz on the dressing. The sarafan was reconstructed by analogues and by the remaining cloths of cloth and braid. Restorers AM Gvozdev, GA Grigoriev (dressing).
Arkhangelsk State Museum of Wooden Architecture and Folk Art “Small Koreps” (sarafan).
GMO “Art culture of the Russian North”.

ORDER CLOTHES (AGRICULTURAL)
Olonets Gubernia, Kargopol County Late 19th – Early 20th Century
Straight dress. Kumach, cotton and woolen threads. Tambour. Sshit on the hands. The length is 125.
Women’s shirts. Kumach, homespun linen pestry. Stitched on the hands. The length is -117.
A scarf. The Vladimir province. Association of manufactories Baranov. Chintz. 78X 89.5
Restoration. 1982,1988,1994 The fabrics are cleaned of impurities and strengthened. On the hem of the sarafan, embroidery is strengthened, replacing small losses with a tambour stitch on the remaining punctures from the needle. Restorer GA Grigoriev.
GMO “Art culture of the Russian North”.
Solovetsky State Historical, Architectural and Natural Museum-Reserve (shawls).

VOLOGODSKAYA GUBERNIA VELSKY UEZD
WOMEN`S CLOTHING
Vologda Province, Velsky Uyezd. XIX – early XX century
The dressing gown is scoffed. Shtof, galloon, silk braid and cord, metal buttons (remains), linen cloth, chintz. Sshit on the hands. The length is 139.
Shirt. Linen cloth, canvas, kumach, wicker lace. Embroidery set for bridal weaving. Stitched on the hands. The length is 102.
Koroten. Silk fabric, linen heel, linen cloth, chintz, galloon. Stitched on the hands. Length- 48. Inv.798KP
Restoration. 1985, 1995 The dismantling of the sarafan was made and shortened. The items are cleaned of dirt. The duplicating materials are toned. Details of the sarafan and short are completely duplicated. Cloths and laces are strengthened. Clothes mounting. Restorer GA Grigoriev.

Costume.
Silk fabric (rep), cotton fabric. Sewn on the typewriter and partially on hands. The length of the skirt is 140, the length of the jacket is 64.
Restoration. 1995. Cleaned from contamination, removed most of the mold. Strengthened tissues and seams. Restorer GA Grigoriev.
Velsky Museum of Local Lore.

WOMEN`S CLOTHING
Vologda province, Yarensky district, Lena volost. The end of the XIX-beginning of the XX century
The dressing gown is scoffed. Linen printed cloth (hand-printed), canvas, kumach, cotton fabric. Sshit on the hands. The length is 112.
Vorotushka – short shirt Linen and cotton threads. Manual bridal and elective weaving. Crochet crochet. Stitched on the hands. The length is 29.3.
A scarf. Linen. Manual bridal and elective weaving. 128 x 61.
Restoration. 1990. Removed late patch on kerchief. The fabrics are cleaned of impurities and strengthened. Restorer SS Nosikov.
Arkhangelsk State Museum of Wooden Architecture and Folk Art “Malye Korely”.

Dress. Silk fabric, chintz, lace, metal buttons. Stitched on the hands and partially on the typewriter. The length is 135.
The anal. Yuromsky volost, the village of Malaya Nisogora. PS Labyshev. Tinsel brocade, kumach, chintz. Sshit on the hands. 21 x 19×8.
Kushts are a scarf for tying an asshole. Taffeta, kumach. 123 x 8.5.
A scarf. Russia.
Woolen fabric. Manual printing. 97×96, brush.
Restoration. 1989, 1990, 1993 The objects are cleaned of debris, deformations are eliminated. Removed rough seams for tears. Under the loss of tissues tinted materials are brought. The fabrics are strengthened. The metal buttons have been cleaned and preserved. Restorers AM Gvozdev (scarf), GA Grigorieva.

WOMEN`S CLOTHING
Archangel province, Arkhangelsk district (Summer coast of the White Sea).
The end of the XIX – the beginning of the XX century
Dress: FG Petrova (1880s -1970s).
Cotton fabric (konyfas), satin, woolen and cotton tape. Stitched on the hands and partially on the typewriter. The length is 121.
Ponoynik: Cotton fabric, canvas, beads, pearls, metal glitter, spun silver, truntsal, cardboard. Solid gold embroidery in the attachment, the pattern is sewn on the map. 18 x 18×8.5.
Odirka – kerchief for tying the breastpin
Taffeta. Folded: width – 8, diameter-52.
Scarf: Russia. Woolen fabric (cashmere). Factory printing. On the underside of the violet paint put factory number – 320. 92 x 95.
Restoration. 1991,2003 Purification from impurities is made, the fabrics are strengthened, and gold embroidery is reinforced on the acuminate. Restorers LA Brovina, GA Grigorieva (povoynik).
Solovetsky State Historical, Architectural and Natural Museum-Reserve.
The anal. After the restoration.

Woman’s headdress. Before the restoration. Front and rear view after restoration.

Kokoshnik. Fragment of podni before and after restoration.

Short. Fragments of the front floor and lining. After the restoration.

Blouse. Fragment before and after restoration. The anal. After the restoration.

Dressing. Before and after restoration.

Festive clothing of the Russian North Festive clothes

A scarf. Before and after restoration.

The anal. After the restoration.

The anal. After the restoration.

The anal. After the restoration.

Podchelok. Back view. Before and after restoration.

Sarafan. Back view. Fragment before and after restoration.

Earrings before and after restoration

Skolk after restoration

THE GIRLS CLOTHES
Archangel province, Arkhangelsk district (Summer coast of the White Sea).
Skirt: Posada Luda. Kokovina KP (born in 1906)
Shtoof, canvas, silver galloon. The length is 90 degrees.
Sleeves: Cloth. 144 x 15.
Fence – neck jewelery Belle, pearls, beads, metal locks with glass inserts, tinsel thread, chintz. 26 x 21. Inv. 907 T
Half-shirts. Silk fabric with an armored pattern, galloon, chintz, paper. Sshit on the hands. The length is 59.
Bandage: Galloon, chintz, foil, beads, mother of pearl. Sewing beads. 23.5 x 59.
Beads: Beads, glass beads. Beading. The length is 72.
Earrings: Metal, river pearls, glass beads. Blowing pearls and beads. The length is 8.5 and 9.5.
Restoration. 1983, 1984, 1998, 2003 Partial dismantling is carried out. The items are cleaned of dirt. Strengthened fabrics, details of galloon and paper. Gold and pearl embroidery on the fence and bandage are strengthened, the lower part of the bandage and the earrings are transferred to a new base.